1-800-826-6332

  International: 251-633-5704

Product Instructions


Mugs Imaged in a Mug Heat Press

Substrate

Temperature

Prepress

Press Time

Pressure

PB01W, PB01W-CH, MUG11, MUGK11, MUG11US, MUG02, MUG15US, MUG01, MUG15, MUGK15, MUG15S, DECO-MUGY, DECO-MUGK, DECO-MUGC, DECO-MUGM, DECO-MUGG, DECO-MUGY-CH, DECO-MUGK-CH, DECO-MUGC-CH, DECO-MUGM-CH, DECO-MUGG-CH, DECO-MUG15K, DECO-MUG15C, DECO-MUG15K-CH, DECO-MUG15C-CH, RH-MUG11Y, RH-MUG11Y-CH, RH-MUG11K, RH-MUG11K-CH, RH-MUG11C, RH-MUG11C-CH, RH-MUG11M, RH-MUG11M-CH, RH-MUG11G, RH-MUG11G-CH, RH-MUG15K, RH-MUG15C, RH-MUG15K-CH, RH-MUG15C-CH
400°F
.
3.5 - 8 minutes
Medium-to-Heavy

Additional Items: 1/16" Heat Conductive Green Pad and Pro Spray for top to bottom transfers.

Recommended Paper: DyeTrans or TexPrint

PowerDriver Setting: Ceramic


Step-by-step:
USA Mugs: 11 oz. = 3.5 minutes; 15 oz. = 4 minutes
__________________________________________________
4.5-5 Minutes in a press for Coin banks, 10 oz. and 11 oz. Mugs
(10oz. ceramic mug will not image all the way to the top,
Glass mugs will image top to bottom with no extra time or accessories).
______________________________________________________
Use heavy pressure for Swirl Mugs, place transfer tightly.
11 oz. = 5 minutes; 15 oz. = 6 minutes
_____________________________________________________
5.5-6 minutes for 15 oz. mugs.
8 Minutes for top to bottom on ceramic mugs.
8 Minutes for Glass Mugs
_____________________________________________________
1) Print the transfer. Note that the typical imaging area is 1.25” in from the handle and .25” from the top and bottom sides of the mug. Beyond that, follow our directions for top to bottom transfers.

2) Trim the transfer to just over the size of the mug.

3) Lightly mist transfer with DyeTrans Pro Spray and let dry 15-20 seconds.

4) Carefully place the transfer on the mug, smooth wrinkles. Wrap the mug with protective plain white paper. Do not allow paper to extend well above or below the top and bottom of mug. This part of the paper may wrinkle and the wrinkles will imprint onto the mug. But DO cover the entire mug with plain paper or you may “caramelize” the coating and it will turn brown or yellow. To imprint closely to handle, use the green pad, wrap loosely at the handle bulge, this will allow more complete imaging.

5) Press with Temp/Time/Pressure settings listed above.

6) Cool ceramic mugs in room temperature water. Do not dunk glass mugs.

7) Remove any paper residue with a soft wet cloth or dish sponge.

Notes on the George Knight® DK3 Mug Press
The mug being pressed must be placed with the handle exactly in the middle of the opening, otherwise, the squeezing motions will snap off the handle when the mug is clamped.
• Only what the mug press pad covers will sublimate. Also, if you try to image on or below the bottom of the mug and the mug is tapered, it may not sublimate correctly.
• The black mug with the white imaging panel has a tolerance of plus or minus 1/8”. It is very important to keep this in mind when making your designs for this particular mug.
To do a perfect mug with imaging as far as possible to the top-to-bottom and around to the handle:
You will need:
1) Pro Spray
2) 1/16" green rubber pad @ 9-3/8" x 4-1/8".
3) Geo Knight press extender. You can tell if the press has the extender if the threads on the tightening mechanism are silver instead of black. This technique will allow full top-to-bottom transfer and 1/4" imaging from the handle.


Updated: April 28, 2015

:


DYEWRAP: Coin Banks, Ceramic Mugs and Steins, Aluminum and Stainless Water Bottles, Stainless Steel Mugs and Ceramic Shot Glasses Using an Oven Wrap

Substrate

Temperature

Prepress

Press Time

Pressure

DYEWRAP-10, DYEWRAP-68, DYEWRAP02, DYEWRAP03, DYEWRAP04, DYEWRAP05, DYEWRAP09
400° - 425°F
See below

Additional Items: Pro Spray

Recommended Paper: DyeTrans or TexPrint

PowerDriver Setting: Ceramic or Metal


Step-by-step:
Coin Banks, Ceramic mugs and steins (all except Funnel Mugs, STEIN16K and STEIN01; includes STEIN22WT-CH) Using DYEWRAP-10
Ceramic Latte Funnel Mugs using DYEWRAP02
Shot glasses using DYEWRAP01
PowerDriver: Ceramic
400° ......................15 minutes press time


STEIN16 and STEIN16K Using DYEWRAP-10 Or Using DYEWRAP02 PowerDriver: Ceramic
400° .........................15-17 minutes press time


MUG14SS; 12oz. Stainless steel mugs using DYEWRAP-10 (MUG18SS, with removable plastic insert) PowerDriver: Silver Metal
400° ........................8 minutes press time


Water bottles using DYEWRAP-68
PowerDriver: White Metal or Silver Metal
400° .........................6-8 Minutes (aluminum) 6 Minutes (stainless)

TANK22: Note Maximum panel size is 4" wide x 3" high; allow for slight curve of tankard
400° ........................16-18 minutes press time

MUG20
400° .......................16 minutes press time

16oz. Ceramic Stein Without Gold Rim (pn: STEIN)
PowerDriver: Ceramic
400° .....................................12 Minutes in oven using DYEWRAP-10

28oz. Ceramic Stein With Gold Rim (pn: STEIN28G)
PowerDriver: Ceramic
425° .....................................15-17 Minutes in oven using DYEWRAP03

Clear Glass Mugs - PowerDriver: Unisub Products
Frosted Glass Mug Requires HCR-1849 Heat Conductive Rubber - PowerDriver: Unisub Products
400° .....................................8 Minutes

Glass Steins (STEIN01)
PowerDriver: Ceramic
400° .....................................8-10 Minutes Press Not suitable for use in a heat press

1) Print the transfer. Your image for any of the mugs needs to be about .25” from the top and bottom of the mug and 1.25” from the handle.

2) Trim the transfer to just under the size of the mug.

3) Lightly mist transfer with DyeTrans Pro Spray.

4) Place the transfer on the mug, smooth wrinkles.

5) Wrap the mug with protective paper. Portions of the mug that come into direct contact with the rubber heat platen will yellow.

6) Press.

7) Remove the transfer, then allow the substrate to cool. It is recommended you accelerate the cooling process on all but the animal handle mugs and glass steins by submersing ceramic mugs in room temperature water for about 3 minutes. DO NOT DIP GLASS MUGS or STEINS IN WATER.

8) Remove any paper residue with a soft wet cloth or dish sponge.


 Pro Spray is recommended over heat tape.
 All Steins: Careful not to use too much pressure, it can wrinkle your transfer, use a protective cover sheet but do not reuse that sheet, it will have ink on it after one use.
 STEIN16 and STEIN16K seem to work better when the backside of the transfer is lightly moistened with a wet finger (very lightly).
 Tighten dyewrap to finger tight, then give it two more turns.
 Place the base of the stein in the oven closest to the heat source.
 Be sure to wrap the entire area of the substrate with protective paper, there will be a discoloration of the substrate should the wrap come into contact.
 Remove the water bottle lids before sublimating.
 Wraps should last for 300 or more impressions. To ensure the proper lifecycle, please closely follow these instructions.
 Wraps will fail due to improper torque applied to the fastener. You can ensure appropriate torque, time-after-time, through the use of a mechanized nut driver with an adjustable torque clutch. These devices are relatively inexpensive, $20.00 and up, and easy to use. We recommend the Sears Craftsman 4.8V Pistol cordless screwdriver.
 To calibrate the nut driver's torque, simply finger tighten the nut on the wrap, then tighten further, using a maximum of 2 turns, with an ordinary wrench. Adjust the clutch setting on the nut driver to 1 and begin tightening the nut while cycling upward through the torque settings until the nut actually turns. At this point, set the clutch to 1 number less than the current setting and you're finished.
 Another necessary step is to employ a double-redundant mug wrap system, at a minimum, and a triple-redundant system, ideally. That is, if mugs are being imaged back-to-back in a production run, then you need a matching quantity of cool mug wraps to swap in for subsequent runs. So, if you're running 72 mugs at a time, you will need at least 144 total wraps to do the job. It is easier to do this with a triple-redundant system, as the term "cool" is less subjective than with a double-redundant system. Having three-times the necessary wraps is absolutely the best way to preserve them over time.
 When a hot wrap is fastened to a mug it causes the material to irreversibly stretch. As the material expands it puts undo force on the glue bindings, which will eventually come loose. Further, it is a bad idea to subject the image to transient heat before transfer.
 Should your wrap come apart at a glue binding, you can re-secure it with automotive heat-resistant gasket glue. Beware of the rather lengthy setting time of 1 week for the repair to fully cure.
 The fastener will permanently seize if it is not lubricated properly. Lubrication of the threaded shaft is required before you use it for the first time and periodically thereafter. We recommend heat-resistant bearing grease with a colored (usually white, red or green) tracer. The colored tracer provides a visual verification that the grease is still intact.
 Stainless Steel Mugs: The imprintable area on these mugs tends to vary by a slight amount, so be sure to confirm measurements when you line up your artwork.






Updated: May 12, 2015

:


PolySub™ Plastic Mugs

Substrate

Temperature

Prepress

Press Time

Pressure

ATS02, ATS03, POLYMUG11
390°- 400°F
.
4 minutes press; 18 minutes Oven
Low to Medium

Additional Items: DYEWRAP-10 if using an Oven; Aluminum Support tube for either way

Recommended Paper: DyeTrans

PowerDriver Setting: Unisub Products


Step-by-step:
1) Print image reversed; Securely tape it to the mug.

2) Insert aluminum support tube

3) Put into Oven or Press; Remove immediately.

4) Remove tube while mug is still hot

5) Dip the mug in cold water to stop the sublimation process.

6) Remove the transfer.

The lid for the travel mug may appear loose on the blank substrate. The mug shrinks slightly after sublimation for a correct fit of the lid.

Should an image span the center line crease in the mug it will create a white line through it.

Mugs should be dipped in water immediately after removal from the press. Be sure to remove the metal insert first. This procedure is necessary to prevent the image from ghosting and yielding a fuzzy imprint.


Updated: April 30, 2015

:


DyeTrans® Ceramic Color Changing Morph Mugs

Substrate

Temperature

Prepress

Press Time

Pressure

3001, 3002
375°F
.
6 Minutes in a press; 15 Minutes in an oven using DYEWRAP-10
Medium

Additional Items: Pro Spray

Recommended Paper: DyeTrans or TexPrint

PowerDriver Setting: Ceramic


Step-by-step:
1) Print the transfer and trim to just under the size of the mug.

2) Lightly mist transfer with DyeTrans Pro Spray.

3) Place the transfer on the Morph Mug, smooth wrinkles.

4.) Wrap the Morph Mug with protective paper. Be sure to wrap protective paper all the way to the handle, as contact with the edge of the press head will cause the coating to scratch off.

5) Press with Temp/Time/Pressure settings listed above.

6) Cool mug in room temperature water. Remove transfer after mug has cooled.

7) Remove any paper residue with a soft wet cloth or sponge.

The key to achieving success with Morph Mugs is pressure. Too much pressure alters the morph effect; not enough may produce a washed-out transfer.

The image for any of the mugs needs to be about .25” from the top and bottom of the mug and 1.25” from the handle. You always will be able to see the image dimly on the darkened morph mug. It will reveal the image brightly as the mug is filled with hot liquid and turns white.


Updated: April 9, 2015

:


Ceramic Steins using a DyeWrap

Substrate

Temperature

Prepress

Press Time

Pressure

P20, STEIN, STEIN16, STEIN16K, STEIN28G, TANK22
400°F
.
15-17 minutes
.

Additional Items: ProSpray

Recommended Paper: DyeTrans Multi-Purpose or TexPrint

PowerDriver Setting: Ceramic


Step-by-step:
Coin Banks, Ceramic mugs and steins ( STEIN16K and STEIN01; includes STEIN22WT-CH) Using DYEWRAP-10
PowerDriver: Ceramic
15 minute dwell time


STEIN16 and STEIN16K Using DYEWRAP-10 Or Using DYEWRAP02 PowerDriver: Ceramic
15-17 minute dwell time

MUG14SS; 12oz. Stainless steel mugs using DYEWRAP-10 (MUG18SS, with removable plastic insert) PowerDriver: Silver Metal
8 minute dwell time


TANK22: Note Maximum panel size is 4" wide x 3" high; allow for slight curve of tankard
16-18 minute dwell time

~ Pro Spray is recommended over heat tape.

~ All Steins: Careful not to use too much pressure, it can wrinkle your transfer, use a protective cover sheet but do not reuse that sheet, it will have ink on it after one use.

~ STEIN16 and STEIN16K seem to work better when the backside of the transfer is lightly moistened with a wet finger (very lightly).

~ Tighten dyewrap to finger tight, then give it two more turns.

~ Place the base of the stein in the oven closest to the heat source.

~ Be sure to wrap the entire area of the substrate with protective paper, there will be a discoloration of the substrate should the wrap come into contact.

~ Wraps should last for 300 or more impressions. To ensure the proper lifecycle, please closely follow these instructions.

~ Wraps will fail due to improper torque applied to the fastener. You can ensure appropriate torque, time-after-time, through the use of a mechanized nut driver with an adjustable torque clutch. These devices are relatively inexpensive, $20.00 and up, and easy to use. We recommend the Sears Craftsman 4.8V Pistol cordless screwdriver.

~ To calibrate the nut driver's torque, simply finger tighten the nut on the wrap, then tighten further, using a maximum of 2 turns, with an ordinary wrench. Adjust the clutch setting on the nut driver to 1 and begin tightening the nut while cycling upward through the torque settings until the nut actually turns. At this point, set the clutch to 1 number less than the current setting and you're finished.

~ Another necessary step is to employ a double-redundant mug wrap system, at a minimum, and a triple-redundant system, ideally. That is, if mugs are being imaged back-to-back in a production run, then you need a matching quantity of cool mug wraps to swap in for subsequent runs. So, if you're running 72 mugs at a time, you will need at least 144 total wraps to do the job. It is easier to do this with a triple-redundant system, as the term "cool" is less subjective than with a double-redundant system. Having three-times the necessary wraps is absolutely the best way to preserve them over time.

~ When a hot wrap is fastened to a mug it causes the material to irreversibly stretch. As the material expands it puts undo force on the glue bindings, which will eventually come loose. Further, it is a bad idea to subject the image to transient heat before transfer.

~ Should your wrap come apart at a glue binding, you can re-secure it with automotive heat-resistant gasket glue. Beware of the rather lengthy setting time of 1 week for the repair to fully cure.

~ The fastener will permanently seize if it is not lubricated properly. Lubrication of the threaded shaft is required before you use it for the first time and periodically thereafter. We recommend heat-resistant bearing grease with a colored (usually white, red or green) tracer. The colored tracer provides a visual verification that the grease is still intact.


Updated: April 2, 2015

:


Stainless Steel Travel Mug Sublimation Instructions with a Press

Substrate

Temperature

Prepress

Press Time

Pressure

MUG14SS, MUG18SS, MUG22SS, MUG25SS
400°F
.
1 - 2.5 minutes
Light or Medium

Additional Items: Heat Tape

Recommended Paper: DyeTrans or TexPrint

PowerDriver Setting: Silver or White Metal


Step-by-step:
All white, with white patch or all clear.....................1 Minute.................................Medium Pressure
_________________________________________________________________________
With removable plastic Interior* MUG18SS...........2.5 Minutes in a press.........Light Pressure
_________________________________________________________________________
*Note: Be careful not to press so hard that the mug becomes deformed when the press is closed.

Note: The area of the travel mug beyond the white patch is sublimatable, so any bleed beyond this area will transfer onto the mug.

Notes For Mugs With A Plastic Insert:
~ Remove plastic insert prior to pressing.
~ Plastic insert is dishwasher safe.
~ Stainless steel shell may be submersed in water to accelerate cooling.

Notes For Mugs Without A Plastic Insert:
~ Not dishwasher safe – hand wash only. Allow water to fully drain from the hole in the bottom of the mug prior to storing or using the product. Shipped with the lids attached. Should a lid not fit after imprinting then the mug press pressure was too high.

~ Also, if lids become separated from the original mug to which they were attached, you may find them not to fit. Should this occur, try other lids until you find the proper mate. Heavy pressure will cause damage to the mug’s handle anchor points allowing water to seep into the air-insulating cavity via cracks in these areas. This problem also can occur if the product has been washed in a dishwasher. A hole has been drilled into the bottom of the mug to allow the water to drain. However, even under the best of circumstances, water may still find its way through the handle anchor points or the hole in the bottom of the mug.

~ Perform heat press imaging only. Placing a mug into an oven will cause the plastic pieces to melt.

~ Allow the mug to cool in open air -- do not “dunk” them in water. You can accelerate the cooling process through the use of a fan blowing across the surface of the mug or by laying them down on a Cool Plate.


Updated: April 30, 2015

:


Water Bottle Sublimation Instructions

Substrate

Temperature

Prepress

Press Time

Pressure

WB600W-CH, WB600S-CH, WB004, WB002, WB003
400°F
.
3-3.5 Minutes Press/6 minutes Oven
Firm

Additional Items: DYEWRAP-68 for oven; Heat conductive rubber, pn HCR-18610, if using a press

Recommended Paper: DyeTrans Paper ONLY

PowerDriver Setting: White Metal or Silver Metal


Step-by-step:
1) Remove the cap from the top of the bottle. Remove the water bottle lids before sublimating.

2) Apply image to be transferred face down onto the bottle. You may use either Pro Spray or heat tape to secure the transfer to the bottle. Just be sure not to let the heat platen or the rubber on the wrap overlay the tape.

3) Cover entire imaging area with protective paper.

4) Wrap the bottle with rubber or dyewrap. Note that the rubber pad is slightly longer than the imaging area of the bottle. This is so you can easily position the bottle in the press in that you have more area to "pinch" the rubber while positioning it in the press.

5) Press, or put into oven.

Note from George Knight Presses: We cannot emphasize enough: NO pressing narrow water bottles without the extra rubber pad! You will pinch/overstretch/bend the heater if you try and force-press the water bottle with only one pad in the press (no extra pad).


Updated: March 24, 2015

:


Notes on DyeWraps

Substrate

Temperature

Prepress

Press Time

Pressure

DYEWRAP01, DYEWRAP-10, DYEWRAP02, DYEWRAP03, DYEWRAP-68, DYEWRAP05, DYEWRAP07, DYEWRAP06 {S}, DYEWRAP-173, DYEWRAP09, DYEWRAP07
.F
.
.
.

Additional Items:

Recommended Paper: .

PowerDriver Setting: .


Step-by-step:
Notes on DyeWraps
Be sure to wrap the entire area of the substrate with protective paper, There will be a discoloration of the substrate should the wrap come into contact with it.

Wraps should last for 300 or more impressions. To ensure the proper lifecycle, please closely follow these instructions.

Wraps will fail due to improper torque applied to the fastener. You can ensure appropriate torque, time-after-time, through the use of a mechanized nut driver with an adjustable torque clutch. These devices are relatively inexpensive, $20.00 and up, and easy to use. We recommend the Sears Craftsman 4.8V Pistol cordless screwdriver.

To calibrate the nut driver's torque, simply finger tighten the nut on the wrap, then tighten further, using a maximum of 2 turns, with an ordinary wrench. Adjust the clutch setting on the nut driver to 1 and begin tightening the nut while cycling upward through the torque settings until the nut actually turns. At this point, set the clutch to 1 number less than the current setting and you're finished.

Another necessary step is to employ a double-redundant mug wrap system, at a minimum, and a triple-redundant system, ideally. That is, if mugs are being imaged back-to-back in a production run, then you need a matching quantity of cool mug wraps to swap in for subsequent runs. So, if you're running 72 banks at a time, you will need at least 144 total wraps to do the job. It is easier to do this with a triple-redundant system, as the term "cool" is less subjective than with a double-redundant system. Having three-times the necessary wraps is absolutely the best way to preserve them over time.

When a hot wrap is fastened to a bank it causes the material to irreversibly stretch. As the material expands it puts undo force on the glue bindings, which will eventually come loose. Further, it is a bad idea to subject the image to transient heat before transfer.

Should your wrap come apart at a glue binding, you can re-secure it with automotive heat-resistant gasket glue. Beware of the rather lengthy setting time of 1 week for the repair to fully cure.

The fastener will permanently seize if it is not lubricated properly. Lubrication of the threaded shaft is required before you use it for the first time and periodically thereafter. We recommend heat-resistant bearing grease with a colored (usually white, red or green) tracer. The colored tracer provides a visual verification that the grease is still intact.
Clamp or clip on wraps must always have a layer of talcum powder on them to prevent any binding with the surface of the substrate. Properly talcing these wraps also will extend their life.

To re-talc a wrap, clean both sides with a soft clean rag and a general purpose cleaner. Be sure to remove any larger portions of debris by hand before cleaning the rubber. After the rubber has dried, apply talcum powder to both sides using a clean dry cloth. Shake off any excess amount of powder. Repeat the process at any time you notice the wrap is dirty, sticking to the substrate or not providing good transfer results.

If wraps are stored in an environment with other wraps, there always is the chance that the wrap hardware will damage the rubber on these other wraps. The best way to prevent this is to store the wraps rolled up neatly in a box or unrolled flat on a table or shelf.


Updated: April 28, 2015

:



Copyright © 1992-2015 Conde Systems, Inc. All rights reserved.